6 Common Myths About Concrete

Concrete is that all-important material so critical to large-scale industrial, commercial, and residential construction projects. In fact, aside from water, no other material is used more than concrete. Its wide range of uses means it’s the preferred material for concrete companies when erecting standing structures like bridges and buildings.

However, despite how much it’s used, there are some common misconceptions about this universally-adopted material. To clear the air, here are 6 common myths about concrete debunked.

1. Concrete is always a gray color.

While concrete initially has a gray color, it doesn’t necessarily mean that gray will be the final color. There are multiple additives and mineral colors that can be blended into the concrete mixture long before it’s dried. These additives can change the color of the concrete once hardened. This is ideal for residential and commercial projects where maintaining an aesthetic is critical.

2. You can use acid to strip a concrete sealant.

This is perhaps the most common misconception and it’s a dangerous one. Acid should never be used to strip concrete sealant, no matter what the reason. Acid’s corrosive properties can seriously damage the concrete’s integrity and allow water to permeate throughout the concrete. The best solution is to avoid acid altogether and use a solvent or sealant remover.

3. Concrete and cement are the same thing.

No, concrete and cement are not the same. Cement is an ingredient in concrete. Cement is mixed with water, sand, gravel, and other aggregates and additives when making concrete. There are very few applications where cement is used on its own. Cement is a dry powder that acts as a binder for all the additives, water, and aggregates in order to make concrete harden.

4. The higher the compressive strength, the more durable the concrete.

Strength and durability are not the same. Concrete’s compressive strength can vary from a low of 2,500 psi to a high of 10,000 psi. However, strength refers to how much load/weight the concrete can withstand. Durability refers to how long the concrete can maintain that load/weight without degradation (breaking down).

Several conditions can affect the concrete’s durability such as freeze-thaw cycles, corrosion, cracking, and sulfate or chemical reactions. The best way to maintain concrete’s durability is by using a top-notch sealant that helps to keep water and other substances from seeping inside and degrading the concrete.

5. Concrete is impermeable.

Actually, concrete is not impermeable. Concrete is actually porous, which means water, fumes and noxious liquids can pass through the top layer of the concrete relatively easily. This can take anywhere from a day, to a month, or even several years. This is why using a high-quality sealant is so important to protect the concrete from the outside elements.

6. You can lay concrete any time of year.

Unfortunately, you simply cannot lay concrete any time of the year or under all conditions. Extreme weather conditions affect how concrete hardens. Below freezing or excessively hot temperatures will prevent the concrete mixture from properly drying.

Concrete installation shouldn’t be done in the extremely cold winter months or the high heat of summer. Instead, spring and fall are the best seasons for mixing and hardening concrete.

Interested in a proactive, customer-centric partner for your next construction project? If so, contact us now.

4 Ways To Save Money With Minor Asphalt Repairs

For asphalt driveways or parking lots, leaving cracks and holes unrepaired can make the asphalt susceptible to crumbling and erosion, resulting in issues that require costlier repairs down the line. To save money on asphalt repairs now and in the future, try these four asphalt repairs for minor problems.

 

Make Minor Repairs

Probably the most common minor asphalt repair is for a pothole. For small potholes, prepare the area by clearing it of rocks and vegetation, then washing it. Make sure there is no standing water in the hole or cracks before you begin.

After preparing the area, you can start filling the pothole with a pothole patch. Cover the area until it stands at about 1 and ½ inches above the surface of the surrounding asphalt, then tamp it down with a tamper, or drive over a piece of plywood set over the top.

Tamp the patch down until it is level with the rest of the area and very compact. When the area is dry, you can then use a hand grinder to make the edge of the new asphalt flush with the old, or, while it is still drying, you can use crack repair around the edge, blending with a spreader.

Before sealing the new pavement, do not turn on this spot for 2 to 3 weeks.

 

Drain Problems

Due to erosion and standing water, asphalt around the drains may begin cracking or deteriorating over time or after a freeze.

To repair minor cracks and chips, mark a square around the drain with marking paint. With a pickaxe, break apart the asphalt in the square and remove the debris. Note that if the foundation underneath the asphalt is compromised, this is no longer a minor repair.

Using a pothole patch, fill the area around the drain with the patch, tamping it down every two inches until it is level with the rest of the surface. You can blend this patch with a grinder or crack repair before sealing the surface.

 

Crocodile Cracks

These kinds of cracks appear due to repeated pressure that can’t be supported by the foundation. Water seeping into the cracks may worsen them.

To repair minor crocodile cracks, clean the area of rocks and debris with a tough broom and make sure there are no loose stones nearby to compromise the fix.

Using Gator-Patch or another brand of crack repair, apply the fix to the surface and use a squeegee or spreader to smooth out the patch into a thin layer. Work the material into the cracks by changing directions.

Let it cure before applying the second coat and the seal coat.

 

Chemical Spills or Stains

Whether from oil spills or other harsh chemicals, asphalt can become stained. For a small stain or spill, begin by drying up any active liquid by spreading kitty litter over the top, stomping it down, and letting it sit overnight.

The next day, sweep up the kitty litter and dispose of it. Then, saturate the area with Dawn dish soap and scrub it into the spot with a tough brush or broom. After scrubbing it into the pavement, wash the area clean with the hose. Repeat as necessary.

Chipseal, Gravel and Aggregate: Same or Different?

Chipseal, gravel, and aggregate are 3 excellent options for keeping a firm ground and building sturdy foundations. But, as anyone who has poured the wrong kinds of rocks into a driveway, drainage field, or pool can tell you, the end results can be devastating if you use the wrong time.

Some differences are subtle, with aesthetics and traffic quality sticking out the most. Some thing just feel better. What’s more important is when you use the wrong material.

Here are your best uses for chipseal, gravel, and aggregate. Know their potential and tailor their benefits for your projects with safety, efficiency, and convenience in mind.

What Is Chipseal Best For?

Chipseal is asphalt that goes through a few processes for the final product. A thin layer of heated asphalt is sprayed on a surface, and then smaller chips of aggregate are added on top. A compactor follows, pushing the chips into place and making their positions more uniform.

After compacting, the chipseal needs to be swept or lightly bugged to remove excess chips. This isn’t a heavy, firm buffing that yanks the chips and scrapes up the cooling asphalt–it’s just enough to remove pieces that aren’t firmly stuck to the project.

Chipseal is great for roads, and it’s 1/4th or 1/5th more affordable than standard asphalt spreading techniques, with a life extension of about 5 to 7 years according to the Department of Transportation.

If you’re repairing a road and need a maintenance plan for anything that has general use traffic, chipseal is a great option. It’s all about correction, preservation, and maintenance.

What Is Gravel Best For?

For people who aren’t used to foundation and paving materials, everything is gravel. It has become a general term, but if you want to avoid buying the wrong kind of rocks, stones, or crumbly bits–whatever you call them in your head–it’s time to look at gravel specifics.

Gravel is measured by its particle size, or the size of the materials in the gravel pack you buy. There are two scales to keep in mind:

Udden-Wentworth Scale

  • Granular – 2–4 mm or 0.079–0.157 inches
  • Pebble – 4–64 mm or 0.2–2.5 in

ISO 14688

  • Fine – 2.0 to 6.3 mm
  • Medium – 6.3 to 20 mm
  • Coarse 20 to 63 mm

Gravel is best used for walking paths, driveways, or if you want the rolling, smaller rock features in your hardscaping. It’s easy to walk on, provides decent grip for parking areas, and is easy to replace.

What Is Aggregate Best For?

Aggregate is a combination of different materials. In most products, it means having coarse and medium grains mixed together.

The size isn’t the only difference–different aggregate packs can include different material types. Sand, crushed stone, recycled concrete, slag, and gravel can be included. Aggregate may combine both of the previous materials and add a bit more.

It’s important to know what kind of aggregate you’re using. For foundations where standard rocks are fine as long as the proper filler is involved, you can use any type you want. If you can’t find a supply for a specific, single pack of materials, you might want to find an aggregate supplier that delivers a close enough mixture.

How do you find out? Along with reading the packaging, ask the supplier. Some people will ask where the aggregate comes from, such as a specific quarry or recycled from another construction project. You might even figure out if they can source the actual materials you need, or guarantee a close enough mix.

If you need help figuring out which material to use for your next project, get in touch with a construction and landscaping materials professional today.

How Long Do You Need to Stay Off The Driveway After Applying An Asphalt Sealcoating?

One of the primary questions residential and commercial property owners want to know about applying a driveway sealcoat involves drying times. More specifically, property owners want to know how long after an asphalt sealcoat has been laid down can they resume usage.

While some resources offer advice such as “48 hours,” the answer is not that simple. A wide range of products can be employed, and each type of asphalt sealcoat dry time differs. It’s also important to keep in mind that seasonal temperatures and weather can impact how long you’ll need to stay off the driveway after applying a driveway sealcoat. For a more precise estimate, these are things property owners would be well-served to consider.

How Will Rain Effect an Asphalt Sealcoat?

Experienced asphalt contractors are careful to check local weather reports. Should Mother Nature deliver unexpected precipitation, an asphalt sealcoat can be rendered uneven or non-existent. Moisture from automatic sprinklers and other delivery systems can have the same negative effect on a newly coated surface. A driveway sealcoat typically must dry for at least 4-8 hours, depending on the product and conditions. Given the impact water can have on sealants, it’s advisable to stay off the driveway until a contractor can rectify the issue.

How Long Does A Driveway Sealcoat Take To Dry During Summer?

The best time to apply an asphalt sealcoat is during the warm-weather months. This timing should also be factored against regional rainy seasons. Some areas of the country experience fast-moving showers and severe weather during periods of high temperatures. That’s why local driveway sealcoat contractors pay special attention during those months.

That being said, it’s typically wise to take advantage of warm weather days with full sunlight. A sealcoat can dry within a few hours when applied in direct sunlight on a warm day. Depending on the product, property owners may be able to walk on their driveway as soon as 4 hours after the process has been completed. In terms of driving an automobile on the newly coated surface, the soonest advisable usage is about 24 hours. Most surfaces require a minimum of 48 hours before vehicles can drive over them without negatively impacting the work. However, if weather conditions are not optimal, it may be in your best interest to stay off the driveway for at least 72 hours.

When Can a Driveway Sealcoat Handle Everyday Use?

It’s essential for property owners to understand that a significant difference exists between walking, driving, and unfettered use. While a fast-drying asphalt sealcoat product can hasten light usage, most materials take much longer to fully cure. It’s not unusual for driveways to require upwards of 30 days before property owners enjoy carefree usage. That’s largely because asphalt sealcoat products may not have hardened enough to withstand oil and fuel staining. A product that has not necessarily completely cured could be negatively impacted by turning car or truck tires in place or hard impacts. The critical point is that home and business owners would be wise to take precautions during the first month to ensure the surface isn’t compromised.

Driveway Sealcoat Best Practices Make A Difference

For an asphalt sealcoat to effectively dry and cure, best practices must be observed. Temperatures should not generally fall below 50 degrees and driveways must be perfectly dry before applying products. Sunny days with low humidity maximize dry times and support effective curing. Never consider applying a driveway sealcoat if the forecast indicates a rain threat within 8-12 hours. If severe weather has been forecast, it may be prudent to postpone the work. Asphalt sealcoat best practices help shorten the time your driveway will be sidelined.

Timing, Materials, and Labor Determine Asphalt Crack Sealing Project Costs

No property owner wants to unnecessarily spend more money than necessary when hiring a professional to perform asphalt maintenance. Driveways and parking areas typically require asphalt crack repair every 1-3 years to keep them looking pristine and functioning properly. That being said, the average residential or commercial property owner does not have expertise in asphalt maintenance and repair costs.

Knowing the telltale signs that your surface requires prompt asphalt crack repair treatment and care can be somewhat murky. But by knowing when to reach out to a contractor and how pricing works, property owners can make informed decisions. If you believe your driveway or parking lot may need asphalt maintenance and repair, these are things to consider.

What Property Owners Need to Know About Surface Preparation

It’s not uncommon for everyday people to wait too long to hire a contractor. On the other side of the coin, some property owners pay for asphalt maintenance and repairs prematurely. Recognizing the signs, and getting the timing right, can save property owners money. If you notice any of the following, consider getting a quote.

  • Small cracks seem to be spreading.
  • Stone coloration shows through sealant.
  • Small potholes or depressions appear.

The cost of asphalt crack repair and will largely be driven by the percentage of the defects. Property owners shouldn’t allow cracks to cover more than 30 percent of the driveway and never wait until they have separated to ¼ inch in width. Dealing with this normal reaction to severe heat expansion and cold-weather contraction typically calls for routine asphalt maintenance. This may involve workers clearing away loose debris, cleaning cracks, applying filler before sealants. It’s crucial to make repairs and not allow excessive cracking and damage can shorten the life of a driveway or parking area.

Crack Sealing Material Drives Asphalt Maintenance Costs

The cost of sealing an asphalt surface is significantly less expensive than having to repave it. Asphalt crack repair filler and sealants can run less than $1 per square foot of materials, depending on the region. These costs usually increase year-over-year, and issues such as materials shortages and inflation can cause unexpected spikes in price. But all things being equal, the sealants used for asphalt crack repair are generally nominal. Commonly used material may include the following.

  • Asphalt Polymer Emulsion: This eco-friendly material offers reduced application odors. However, it may offer lower protection against oil and gasoline staining.
  • Coal Tar: This most widely used and cost-effective asphalt maintenance material, it provides significant staining protection.
  • Acrylic: Comprised of acrylic and polymers, this option offers sound resistance to staining and remains environmentally friendly. It does rank among the more expensive materials used for asphalt maintenance and repair.

Property owners that may be impacted by downtime sometimes employ fast-drying asphalt sealant materials. Some products can allow foot traffic to resume in a matter of hours, depending on weather and surface conditions. These materials also offer opportunities for automobile traffic sooner as well. However, the downside involves resealing more frequently.

Manpower Cost of Asphalt Maintenance and Crack Repair

It’s not uncommon for asphalt surface contractors to charge property owners based on square footage, over and against the estimated manual labor involved in surface preparation and material applications. Construction professionals with the knowledge and experience to make lasting repairs are in high demand, and workers typically earn the prevailing wages of a specific area. However, the relatively low cost of hiring professionals to make crack repairs usually outweighs DIY struggles and the high price of repaving.